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Manicotti pasta shells are sold in 8-ounce packages containing 14 tubes, all laying contently in their individual beds of molded plastic to keep them from shattering. When I was learning to cook, manicotti shells became one of my favorite and most successful casseroles. The fact that my vegetarian boyfriend went crazy for them every time I made it certainly inspired me (thirty years later I can still show up with a pan of these manicotti and he expresses the same delight before devouring). The shells do not need to be precooked, unlike most pastas for stuffing, and this eliminates a messy, time-consuming step that always irritated me anyway since pre-cooked pasta is so slippery and breaks easy. All there is to do is stir together the filling of cheese and spinach, turn the tube on its end, and pack it in with a small spoon. This recipe has the combination of mozzarella, mashed tofu, and small-curd cottage cheese or ricotta, just the way I made it way back when. I used to try to make it with different fillings, but always come back to the spinach. The stuffed tubes are nestled side-by side atop a layer of tomato sauce, then encased in more sauce. Some extra water is poured into the side of the baking dish, which will be absorbed by the pasta while it is cooking in the oven. Vegetarian manicotti is one of the best pasta casseroles to make in a flash and is a success for the most timid novice cook. While it takes almost an hour to cook, this is one pasta recipe to have on hand when you get the craving for cheesy baked pasta.

Serves 6 to 8

Lemon Tomato Sauce

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 teaspoon salt

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1 (16-ounce) carton low-fat cottage cheese or 15-ounces ricotta

8-ounces firm tofu

2 cups (8-ounces) mozzarella or Monterey jack cheese, coarsely shredded or thinly sliced

1 (10-ounce) package organic frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 (8-ounce) package dry manicotti shells (14 per package)

1 cup water

In a medium saucepan, combine the olive oil and tomatoes. Bring to a boil over high heat and then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the basil and tomato paste. Cook 5 minutes. Add the salt and lemon juice. Use an immersion blender to purée the sauce or use a food processor if you wish to not see the basil flecks. Sauce is ready for use. Rub a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with olive oil and pour in half of the Lemon Tomato Sauce. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 375º (350º if using a Pyrex glass baking dish). Place tofu and cottage cheese or ricotta in a food processor fitted with the metal blade and use on/off pulses until mixture has curdlike texture, not totaly smooth.

In a medium bowl, combine the cheese/tofu, three-fourths of the cheese, spinach, 1/4 cup of the Parmesan, parsley, and season to taste. Mix together with a spatula until evenly combined. With a spoon, pack each manicotti shell with about 3 tablespoons of the filling. Place each manicotti in the baking dish, side by side, in a single layer. It is okay if they are touching.

When all of the manicotti are filled, pour the remaining sauce over the top, moistening all the shells. Sprinkle the toop with the remaining mozzarella and Parmesan. Pour the 1 cup of water into the side of the baking dish. Cover tightly with foil. Bake in the center of the preheated oven on the middle rack for 50 to 60 minutes, until the shells are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife. Serve immediately with 1 or 2 manicoti per serving.